The three famous waters of Japan are the water of Hakkoda Sukayu in the Tohoku region, the water of the Yoro mountain range, and the water of the Tanzawa mountain range in the Kanto region, all playing crucial roles in Japanese sake brewing.
Sake breweries in Kanagawa use the rich groundwater from the Tanzawa mountains as their brewing water, with many locations even being selected for the Ministry of the Environment’s “Top 100 Famous Waters. This exceptional water is the foundation of Kanagawa’s premium sake.
Nakazawa Sake Brewery is a historic brewery, founded in 1825 (Bunsei 8). In its early days, the brewery dedicated itself to producing sake using Ashigara rice grown in Kanagawa Prefecture. Their efforts were recognized by the lord of the Odawara domain, Lord Okubo, who gave them the name “Matsumidori.”
Since its founding in 1857, Izumibashi Sake Brewery has been a cornerstone of Ebina’s fertile landscape, harnessing the region’s natural resources to create exceptional sake.
Kikkawa Jozo Brewery, nestled at the base of Tanzawa Ōyama, finds its home in a mystical landscape where the summit is often enveloped in mist and fog, even when the foothills remain clear.
Since its founding in 1872, Kumazawa Brewing Company, the only sake brewery in Shonan, Kanagawa, has been dedicated to crafting high-quality sake through handcrafted, small-batch methods that reflect the unique climate and character of the Shonan region.
Believing that good sake is made with good rice, Izumibashi is one of the few breweries in Japan that both polish and grow their own sake rice. Their proprietary junmai, crafted with attention to the unique properties of each rice field, benefits from this meticulous approach. At Izumibashi, they use a traditional tool called a kojibuta to make their koji. This traditional sake-brewing tool requires three times the effort compared to modern methods but allows for precise control over water volume and temperature, ensuring the highest quality. They produce their koji in small batches, each carefully tuned to the unique characteristics of the sake rice from each producer.
Kikkawa Jozo has been making sake since 1912 but in 2012 their brewmaster Masanori Mizuno took them in a radical new direction. Their Afuri sake is bold and brash, with lively flavors and prominent acidity. They draw well water from Mt. Afuri, an unusually mineral rich water source that allows for vigorous fermentation. Primarily low polish their rice is mostly milled to just 90% remaining allowing for the full flavor of the grain to come through. In addition they have revived older methods of developing acid making for bold and unusually tart sake perfect for food pairing.
Since 1872, Kumazawa Brewing Company, the only sake brewery in Shonan, Kanagawa, has been dedicated to crafting high-quality sake through a handcrafted, small-batch method that reflects the unique climate and character of the Shonan region. Their label, Tensei, offers “Song of the Sea,” which uses special Yeast Number 9, a sake yeast discovered in Kumamoto Prefecture that is ideal for ginjo sake, producing rich aromas and clear flavors. Additionally, “Infinite Summer” is made from “Gohyakumangoku” rice, sourced from Toyama and Shonan. The rice is polished to 60%, and Yeast Number 9 is used for fermentation. This rice imparts a juicy sweetness to the sake, which is bottled within 24 hours of pressing to preserve its delicate aroma and freshness.
Nakazawa Sake Brewery continues to focus on producing pure rice sake (junmai) and unpasteurized sake (namazake), carefully selecting both the rice and water used in brewing. The brewery carefully polishes each grain of high-quality sake rice and uses the pure, pristine spring water from the Tanzawa mountain range. Maintaining traditional brewing methods, every step—from koji-making to pressing the sake with a traditional fune press—is done by hand, ensuring that the sake is crafted with care and precision over time.
Kawanishiya Sake Brewery, established in 1897, was born in a region blessed with beautiful nature, where one can enjoy mountain climbing, hiking, famous waterfalls, crystal-clear streams, and flower viewing, all set in the Tanzawa mountain range. One of their notable labels, Tanzawasan, was created from the brewery owner’s passion to craft junmai ginjo sake using the finest rice, in collaboration with local farmers. Tanzawasan embodies the brewery’s belief in achieving ‘harmony with food,’ where sake enhances the flavors of food, and food elevates the sake’s taste. With deep flavors and a long-lasting finish, Tanzawasan spreads across the palate, much like the streams of the Tanzawa mountains.
The yeast used in S.tokyo is “Saccharomyces tokyo NAKAZAWA,” a sake yeast discovered in 1909 (Meiji 42) by Dr. Ryoji Nakazawa, a Japanese microbiologist. This yeast is the second oldest known in existence and has never been utilized in sake production before, making it truly elusive. The discovery of this yeast led to its research by Ryo Kagiwada, the 11th generation of Nakazawa Sake Brewery, during his time at Tokyo University of Agriculture. Following his research, he joined Nakazawa Sake Brewery and began developing new products. Incredibly, this long-dormant yeast was revived and successfully transformed into a sake product. To honor Dr. Nakazawa’s passion for yeast research and pay tribute to this rare yeast, the sake has been named after the yeast itself: “S.tokyo” Junmai Ginjo.
The elusive yeast used in S.tokyo was discovered at a brewing research institute in Munich, Germany, which was known for its cutting-edge research technology at the time. The goal of Nakazawa Sake Brewery is to share this sake, made from the yeast discovered through a serendipitous encounter in the Meiji era, with the people of Munich, the yeast’s birthplace.
The elusive yeast used in S.tokyo had no prior record of use in sake production, meaning there was no brewing data available. As a result, the journey to commercialization demanded extensive experimentation and adjustments. After facing considerable challenges, it was discovered that, unlike the yeast commonly used today, this elusive yeast does not ferment well at low temperatures and is sensitive to temperature changes. Sudden cooling can weaken its activity. Therefore, rather than using modern cooling equipment, the brewery maintained a relatively high fermentation temperature of 14°C, similar to the methods used during Nakazawa Sake Brewery’s founding. This approach resulted in sake with a gentle aroma, refined sweetness, and refreshing acidity, achieving a perfect balance.
The sake is undiluted (not adjusted with water) and has an alcohol content of 14-15% (2-3% lower than typical undiluted sake). It is best served chilled in a wine glass and enjoyed alongside meat dishes. S.tokyo introduces a novel sensation in the world of sake.
Since its founding in 1857, Izumibashi Sake Brewery has been a cornerstone of Ebina’s fertile landscape, harnessing the region’s natural resources to create exceptional sake. Nestled near Mt. Oyama in the Tanzawa mountain range, the brewery benefits from mineral-rich waters, which provide the rare hard water essential for crafting sake with a distinct, rich umami flavor. This flavor profile enhances a variety of dishes, reflecting the unique essence of the region.
Izumibashi Sake Brewery stands out as one of Japan’s rare “Cultivation Breweries,” where the art of sake-making extends beyond brewing to include the cultivation, harvest, and milling of their own rice. This holistic approach begins with the soil, where environmentally friendly, reduced-pesticide techniques are used to improve both soil health and rice quality. Each batch of rice is milled in-house using methods tailored to its unique characteristics and growing conditions. Collaborating with local producers, JA Sagami, and the Kanagawa Agricultural Technology Center, the brewery manages 44 hectares of rice fields across Ebina, Zama, and Sagamihara. They directly oversee seven hectares, ensuring that over 90% of the rice used in their sake is sourced from local fields, honoring the region’s agricultural heritage.
All of the brewery’s sake is authentic junmai, crafted by hand using traditional methods. Their koji production follows traditional techniques with kojibuta trays, a labor-intensive method that, while demanding, allows for precise control over the brewing process and ensures exceptional quality. Each batch of koji is crafted in small quantities, finely tuned to the specific rice used. Embracing tradition and sustainability, half of Izumibashi’s production utilizes the ancient kimoto-zukuri method. This technique, relying on naturally occurring lactic acids, imparts a complex flavor profile to their sake, underscoring their commitment to preserving traditional practices and environmental stewardship. Their ongoing efforts to grow their own rice and practice natural brewing techniques reflect the brewery’s dedication to maintaining these time-honored traditions for future generations.
Since its founding in 1872, Kumazawa Brewing Company, the only sake brewery in Shonan, Kanagawa, has been dedicated to crafting high-quality sake through handcrafted, small-batch methods that reflect the unique climate and character of the Shonan region.
The name of their sake label, “Tensei,” is inspired by an ancient Chinese proverb from the Five Dynasties period. An emperor of the Later Zhou Dynasty described the ideal color of celadon porcelain with the phrase “The rain has passed through the sky and the clouds have broken through” (雨過天青雲破処), referring to the clear, vivid blue of the sky after the rain, as the clouds begin to disperse. Inspired by this legendary hue, the brewery strives to create sake under the “Tensei” label that embodies the same refreshing clarity and richness.
To mark its 140th anniversary, Kumazawa Brewing Company is leading the “Sake Rice Project,” an initiative that bridges the region’s rich traditions with its future. Known for excellent rice cultivation since the Yayoi period, the area saw many rice fields abandoned due to post-war land reforms and agricultural policies that separated rice farming from sake brewing.
In response, the brewery has partnered with local farmers, listening to the land’s needs, and revived the tradition of making sake from locally grown rice. The aim is to produce sake unique to the region while preserving the beautiful rural landscape for future generations.
Today, 35% of the rice used in their sake comes from their own harvest, giving the sake a distinctive and unmatched quality. By maintaining consistent brewing practices, they aim to fully utilize the rice grown in this land.
As the sole sake brewery in Shonan, Kumazawa Brewing Company is committed to reclaiming abandoned farmland and continues to work towards producing sake with locally sourced rice. This effort is vital for supporting the community’s future, and the brewery is dedicated to pursuing this mission.
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